Perché gli anni ’90 sono ancora così attuali? Cosa hanno in comune con gli anni che stiamo vivendo?
Hanno davvero rivoluzionato il concetto di moda e sono stati fondamentali per la nascita dell’industria moderna?
La moda di allora è stata definita dark, concettuale e ha visto convivere minimalismo, decostruttivismo, e grunge. Ha visto l’affermarsi di fenomeni contrastanti: i designer hanno assunto il ruolo di celebrità, le modelle sono diventate supermodelle, ma si è parlato anche di antifashion.
L’arrivo di internet e lo sviluppo tecnologico hanno portato enormi cambiamenti nel fashion system, ma al tempo stesso c’è stato un ritorno alla sartorialità e alla nascita di case di moda indipendenti.
Negli anni ’90 nasce anche l’attenzione per l’impatto della moda sull’ambiente e si parla per la prima volta di sostenibilità.
Per approfondire la conoscenza di questo decennio che così tanti legami sembra avere con la nostra attualità, vi proponiamo una selezione di libri, riviste, CD che è possibile consultare presso la nostra biblioteca ed alcune risorse web.
Per cominciare
https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/international-fashion-shows
https://www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com/global-dress-and-fashion
Must read
Evans, Caroline. Fashion at the edge: spectacle, modernity and deathliness. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2003
“Recent experimental fashion has a dark side, a preoccupation with representations of death, trauma, alienation, and decay. This intriguing book looks closely at this strand of fashion design in the 1990s, exploring what its disturbing themes tell us about consumer culture and contemporary anxieties, Caroline Evans analyses the work of experimental designers, the images of fashion photographers, and the spactacula fashion shows that developed in the final decade of the twentieth century to arrive at a new understanding of fashion’s dark side and what it signifies.”
Hill, Colleen and Patricia Mears and Shonagh Marshall and Valerie Steele. Reinvention & restlessness: fashion in the nineties. New York: Rizzoli Electa, 2021
Minimalism. Deconstruction. The rejuvenation of established houses. These are just a few of the concepts that have come to define 1990s fashion. Others include an increased concern with environmentalism, developing technologies and the beginning of the fashion internet, freewheeling historical references, and a predilection for lifting significant styles from other cultures (the issues raised by this 'borrowing' are reviewed through a contemporary lens). In the twenty years since the decade ended, the fashion world has experienced several nineties revivals.
Reinvention and Restlessness: Fashion in the 90s focuses specifically on designers who challenged the expected appearance or workings of high fashion, and who played an important role in laying the foundation for fashion of the twenty-first century, including: Tom Ford, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Martin Margiela, Stella McCartney, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, and Viktor & Rolf. Additional chapters address changes to fashion editorials and campaigns (under talents like Steven Meisel, Corinne Day, Inez & Vinoodh, Mark Borthwick, and Nan Goldin), a new theatricality to runway presentations, and the emergence of fashion theory as a field.
Arnold, Rebecca. E/motion: fashion in transition. Tielt: Lannoo, c2021
“Understanding fashion is a way to understand, and articulate, both the hopeful and the uncomfortable truths of the world. E/motion looks the way fashion has served as a visual signifier of contemporary instabilities, concerns and emotions since the 1990s. Fashion is emotion, always in motion.” [Fonte: quarta di copertina]
Inoltre
Lavine, Michael. Grunge. Milano: Isbn Edizioni, 2010
Eichner, Steve and Gabriel H. Sanchez and Peter Gatien. In the limelight: the visual ecstasy of NYC nightlife in the 90s. Munich, London, New York : Prestel, c2020
Tillmans, Wolfgang and Burkhard Riemschneider. Wolfgang Tillmans. Köln: Taschen, 1995
Schiffer, Claudia. Captivate!: fashion photography from the '90s. Munchen: Prestel, c2021
Reed, Paula. Fifty fashion looks that changed the 1990s. London: Conran Octopus, 2013
Quinn, Bradley. Techno fashion. Oxford: Berg, c2002
Gaensheimer, Susanne. Not in fashion: photography and fashion in the 90s. Bielefeld: Kerber, 2010
Jarrett, Marvin Scott and Liz Phair and Wayne Coyne and Dean Kuipers and Steven Heller. RAYGUN: the bible of music and style. New York: Rizzoli, 2019
Hawgood, Alex, “ All ‘90s, all the Time”. W. Vol. 1, 2022: 50-51
Tank, Volume 10, Issue 11, 2022
Archivio : future memories, The nineties Issue, n. 5, June 2020
Le copertine iconiche
Bloom, 2/1999 Arts and Crafts
Colors: a magazine about the rest of the world, 6/1994 Ecology Now
Dazed & Confused, 46/1998
i-D, 136/1995
L’Uomo Vogue, 210/1990
L’Uomo Vogue, 218/1991
L’Uomo Vogue, 267/1996
The face, 15/1989
The face, 22/1990
The face, 60/1993
The face, Vol. 3, n. 2, March 1997
Vogue Italia, 493/1991
Vogue Italia, 507/1992
Vogue [London], December 1991
Vogue [London], January 1990
Vogue [London], September 1992
Vogue [USA], April 1992
Vogue [USA], April 1993
Documentari
Nicklaus, Olivier. Fashion!: golden eighties, antifashion, go global [Bry-sur-Marne]: INA éditions, 2012
Film
Altman, Robert. Pret-a-porter. USA, 1994
Tarantino, Quentin. Pulp fiction. USA, 1994
Verhoeven, Paul. Basic instinct. USA, 1992
Keeve, Douglas. Unzipped. USA, 1995
Marshall, Garry. Pretty woman. USA, 1990
Lynch, David. Twin peaks: fuoco cammina con me!. USA, FR, 1992
Musica
Floyd, Chris, and Dave Brolan. The Verve: photographs. London: RAP, 2017
Björk, Klaus Biesenbach and Alex Ross and Nicola Dibben and Timothy Morton and Sjón. Björk: mid-career retrospective with new commissioned piece for MoMA. New York: Artbook, 2015
Morgen, Brett and Richard Bienstock and Hisko Hulsing and Stefan Nadelman. Cobain: Montage of Heck. London: Omnibus Press, 2015
Dalla rete (ultimo accesso 18/07/2022)
"90s". Dazed https://www.dazeddigital.com/tag/90s
"90s fashion". i-D. https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/topic/90s-fashion
"90s fashion: Outfits, Style, Trends & More. The best in ’90s nostalgia—fashion, outfits, style, trends, and more from fashion’s favorite decade". vogue.com, https://www.vogue.com/tag/misc/nineties
Foley, Gregk. "The trends & brands that defined '90s hip-hop fashion". Highsnobiety.com https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/90s-hip-hop-fashion/
Seth, Radhika e Freddie Braun. "18 Of The Best ’90s Fashion Movies To Binge This Weekend". Vogue.com, https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/article/90s-fashion-movies
Tortora, Laura. "Le supermodelle degli anni 90". Vogue.com https://www.vogue.it/moda/modelle/2017/03/17/le-supermodelle-degli-anni-90
[Lorenza Conti]