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CineCulture: All About My Mother: The Art of Resistance

Agrado: “Well, as I was saying, it costs a lot to be authentic, ma'am. And one can't be stingy with these things because you are more authentic the more you resemble what you've dreamed of being.”

 

Title: All About My Mother (Todo sobre mi madre)

Country: Spain, France

Year: 1999

Directed by Pedro Almodovar

Starring: Cecilia Roth, Marisa Paredes, Penelope Cruz, Candela Peña, Antonia San Juan, Rosa Maria Sardà

Costume design by José María de Cossío, Bina Daigeler

 

"All About My Mother" (1999) is a poignant and emotionally complex drama that follows Manuela, a single mother whose life is dramatically transformed by a tragic event. The film begins in Madrid, where Manuela works as a hospital coordinator and shares a close, loving relationship with her teenage son Esteban. On his 17th birthday, Manuela takes Esteban to the theater to see a play, and during the evening, a devastating accident occurs that changes everything.

Following this life-altering moment, Manuela embarks on a profound journey of grief, healing, and self-discovery. She travels to Barcelona, seeking to find Esteban's biological father, whom she had never told her son about. During her search, she encounters a diverse and complex group of characters, including a transgender sex worker named La Agrado, a pregnant nun dealing with her own challenging circumstances, and a prominent actress who becomes central to Manuela's quest for understanding and closure.

 

Review

Twenty-five years after its release, Pedro Almodóvar's masterpiece "All About My Mother" continues to resonate deeply within both cinematic and fashion circles. The film's rich tapestry of visual storytelling, particularly through its masterful use of costume and color, has left an indelible mark on fashion's collective consciousness.

At its heart, the film weaves an intricate narrative of motherhood, identity, and transformation through the journey of Manuela, whose life takes a dramatic turn following personal tragedy. Yet it's the film's bold visual language that has captured the imagination of fashion's most innovative minds. The way clothing operates as both armor and expression throughout the story has particularly influenced designers grappling with questions of gender, identity, and performance in their work.

Consider La Agrado, whose carefully curated wardrobe becomes a manifesto of self-determination. Her bold, unapologetic style choices have echoed through collections of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, who shares Almodóvar's understanding of fashion as a tool for gender expression and identity construction.

What makes "All About My Mother" particularly relevant to today's fashion landscape is its prescient understanding of clothing as political statement. The film's costume choices operate as subtle critiques of social hierarchies and gender norms, an approach that resonates strongly with contemporary fashion's increasing engagement with social justice and identity politics.

The film's influence extends beyond individual designers to impact broader conversations about representation and identity in fashion. Its theatrical approach to costume has demonstrated how clothing can communicate complex narratives about identity and transformation.

As fashion continues to grapple with questions of gender, identity, and social meaning, "All About My Mother" remains a touchstone for everybody. Its sophisticated understanding of how clothing can express, transform, and liberate continues to offer inspiration for those seeking to push the boundaries of fashion as a medium for personal and political expression.

If great films are time capsules of their cultural moment while simultaneously speaking to future generations, then "All About My Mother" stands as a masterwork of cultural influence. Its impact on fashion serves as a testament to Almodóvar's genius in understanding how personal style can become a powerful tool for storytelling, identity formation, and social transformation.

 

Pedro Almodovar

La piel que habito, 2011 

Los abrazos rotos, 2009

Volver, 2006

Kika, 1993

Tacones lejanos, 1991 

He, Jenny. 2022. Pedro Almodóvar. Instalación. Los Angeles: Academy Museum of Motion Pictures ; New York: DelMonico Books, D.A.P. (Catalogue of the exhibition, Los Angeles, Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, 30 September 2021 - 7 April 2024 ) 

Fantastic Man, 23/2016 

Blahnik, Manolo, and Michael Roberts. 2015. Manolo Blahnik: Fleeting Gestures and Obsessions. New York: Rizzoli 

Madri

Clippel, Karolien de (ed.). 2024. M_Others. Fashion and Motherhood. Tielt: Lannoo Publishers (Catalogue of the exhibition, Hasselt, Modemuseum Hasselt, 14 June 2024 - 5 January 2025)

Jørgensen, Lærke Rydal, Marie Laurberg, Kirsten Degel, and Johan Holten (eds.). 2021. Mutter!. Berlin: Distanz Verlag (Catalogue of the exhibition, Humlebaek, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, 28 January-29 August 2021; Mannheim, Kunsthalle Mannheim, 1 October 2021-6 February 2022) 

Gioni, Massimiliano, and Roberta Tenconi. 2015. La Grande Madre. Donne, Maternità e Potere nell’arte e nella Cultura Visiva, 1900-2015. Milano: Skira (Catalogue of the exhibition, Milan, Palazzo Reale, 26 August-15 November 2015) 

Loss

Hetz, Florian. 2020. Aiko. Vienna: Paper Affairs Publishers

Hoffman, Elis. 2015. Fading. Heidelberg: Kehrer.

Guttmann, Ursula (ed.). 2015. Love & Loss. Mode Und Vergäglichkeit. Wien: Verlag für Moderne Kunst (Catalogue of the exhibition, Linz, Lentos Kunstmuseum Linz, 13 March-7 June 2015) 

Gender studies

Vita, Anita Dolce. DapperQ Style: Ungendering Fashion. New York: Harper Design, 2023.

Broomberg, Adam. Glitter in My Wounds. London: MACK, 2021.

Janes, Dominic. Freak to Chic. ‘Gay’ Men in and out of Fashion after Oscar Wilde. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021. [Berg Fashion Library (access with Polimoda account)]

Geczy, Adam, and Vicki Karaminas. Libertine Fashion Sexual Freedom, Rebellion, and Style. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020. [Berg Fashion Library (access with Polimoda account)]

Reilly, Andrew Hinchcliffe, and Ben Barry (eds.). Crossing Gender Boundaries. Fashion to Create, Disrupt and Transcend. Bristol: Intellect, 2020.

Venegas, Luis (ed.). The C*Ndy Book of Transversal Creativity. The Best of C*Ndy Transversal Magazine, Allegedly. New York: Rizzoli, 2020.

Future gender. Aperture 229/2017.

Mauriès, Patrick. Androgyne Fashion and Gender. London: Thames and Hudson, 2017.

Russo, Marialba. Travestimento. Roma: Postcart, 2016.

Getsy, David. Abstract Bodies. Sixties Sculpture in the Expanded Field of Gender. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2015.

Rheims, Bettina, and Frédéric Sanchez. Bettina Rheims: Gender Studies. Göttingen: Steidl, 2014.

Karaminas, Vicki, and Adam Geczy. Queer Style. London: Bloomsbury, 2013. [Berg fashion library (access with Polimoda account)]

Lord, Catherine, and Richard Meyer. Art & Queer Culture. London: Phaidon Press, 2013.

The gender agenda issue. i-D 286/2008.

White, Sophie (ed.). "Dress and gender". Fashion theory, vol. 9, fasc. 2/2005. (access with Polimoda account)

Suthrell, Charlotte A. Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture. Oxford: Berg, 2004. [Berg fashion library (access with Polimoda account)]

Goldin, Nan. The Other Side. New York: Scalo, 2000.

Griggs, Claudine. S/He. Changing Sex and Changing Clothes. Oxford: Berg, 1998. [Berg fashion library (access with Polimoda account)]

Garber, Marjorie. Interessi Truccati. Giochi di Travestimento e Angoscia Culturale, edited by Maria Nadotti. Milano: Cortina, 1994.

 

[Published 08/02/2025]